Monday, May 16, 2005

Tips to Photographing Your Trophy Fish by Tukto Lodge



When a lake is designated as "trophy fishing only" (or catch and release) it is important for you to be ready to catch your fish, take a prize-winning shot and release your giant back into the water for others to enjoy. Before setting out on your trophy trout fishing trip with your fishing partner or guide, keep these few tips in mind.

Bring along a good, reliable camera. It doesn't matter if it is digital or 35 mm, but make sure it has an automatic focus feature. Most casual photographers don't need the pressure of adjusting settings, so an automatic camera is a good choice. In addition, for the sake of safety, it doesn't hurt if your camera is waterproof!

With catch and release fishing, the ultimate goal is to return the fish to the water quickly and gently. Touch the fish as little as possible and never touch the gills. Because you have so little time, be sure the person taking the picture is ready to go. That means the film is in the camera, the cap is off the lens and the photographer is holding the camera up to his or her eye ready to snap as you are landing that trophy!

When you are in the boat, sometimes it can be tricky but try to keep the camera even with the horizon of the water. It can be distracting if the horizon is on an odd angle. Keep the picture as uncluttered as possible. The water, sky and distinct beauty of the tundra around Tukto Lodge are background enough!

Don't forget to fill the frame. Go in and make sure you have all the elements - the subject's head and upper body and the full trophy trout. If shooting a vertical photograph try to center your subject, however if you are photographing in a horizontal manner it can add interest to place your subject slightly to one side, but only if the whole fish is included as well. (Imagine the photograph divided into thirds and place your subject on any of the "third's lines")

Natural light provides the best photographs, and because the light is strongest during the middle of the day, it is best to take pictures in morning or late afternoon light. This sort of light gives photos richer colors and baths the photo in warm light.

Don't take a photograph with the subject's back to the sun and the photographer facing the sun. This will result in washed out skies and a darkly shadowed subject that no one can see. Turn the subject to the sun or sideways to the sun. Ask them to remove their sunglasses to reduce glare. If they are wearing a hat, they should either remove it or tilt their head so that there is no shadow over the face.

At Tukto Lodge, we know you are going to be catching a lot of trophies - so we want your pictures to look great!
About the Author
Tukto Lodge is an angler's paradise, with trophy trout and exciting grayling fishing. Located in Canada's Arctic, our guest cabins and outposts are surrounded by the untouched beauty of the tundra, with hundreds of miles of unexplored lakes and rivers. Visit http://www.arcticfishing.com

Choosing The Proper Fly Fishing Leader and Tippet by Cameron Larsen



Selecting the correct tapered leader and tippet for the type of fishing you are about to do is crucial. Nothing can spook fish quicker than an oversized tippet for the particular situation. On the other hand, and undersized tippet can result in the fly fisher losing their trophy before they even get a photo opportunity. We will start at the very basic of leader and tippet selection and then get more specific, and hopefully conclude with enough information so well always have the proper leader and tippet for all upcoming fishing scenarios.

What is leader and tippet

Leader and tippet is the final connection between the fly fisher and their fly. It is the section of line after the fly line and before the fly. Its purpose is to transfer energy from the fly line down to the fly, allow for natural presentation of the fly, and then be strong enough for the fly fisher to retrieve any fish that might strike at the naturally presented fly. Sounds simple enough, but this is fly fishing, and fly fishers have been around a long time. And as a group we seem to think about everything related to our sport a lot, and therefore probably have over complicated things a tad.

The leader in fly fishing is tapered. It is thicker at the butt section, then at the tippet section. It is usually divided into three sections, the butt is tied directly to the fly line, and is the longest portion of the leader, about 60%. The mid-section is next and its purpose is to taper down to the tippet without losing a lot of strength. The final section is the tippet, it is the actual section that is tied to the fly. It is the thinnest section, it needs to be strong, yet allow for a natural drift, without alarming the fish that your offering is connected to a person that will pull back.

Commercial leaders by and large achieve all this in one smooth product. Although there are still knotted leaders out there, by and large knotless leaders are the choice. It is possible to construct you own leaders and many people do. But that is the topic of another article. A fly fisher does, however need to know how to attach new tippet portion to the fly line, I prefer the double surgeons knot, but the blood knot is also popular. Learn how to tie these knots before fighting that monster! A poorly tied knot will reveal itself at the most opportune times.

X factor

Now comes the fun part. A new set of numbers to learn. Different numbers then choosing flies or fly rods. Fly fishing is overwrought with numbering systems, and unfortunately leaders and tippets you are just going to need to learn. They are sized on the X numbering system. So when you hear someone say they are switching to a 6X, you now know they are talking about their tippet. X measures the diameter of the leader minus .011. So a 6X would measure .005. A 0X would actually measure .011. One really only needs to remember the HIGER the X, the smaller the diameter. The other number worth noting the test, or breaking factor, a 4lb test leader will break when more than 4lbs pressure are applied. This is worth noting, and many a trophy are lost when violating that #.

There are many variable to consider when selecting the right X, but the two most common are the size of fish you are going after, and the size of fly you are using when going after them. A quick guide is as follows:

XFly
0 2-6
1 4-8
2 4-10
3 6-12
4 6-14
5 12-16
6 16-20
7 20-24
8 24 and smaller
Length

One must also think about the length of the leader itself. Leaders are sold these days anywhere from 4 feet to 15 feet. There are many things to consider when deciding on length, some are variable like wind and water clarity. Other variable are static like size of fish, current, etc.

Typically the easier it is to spook a fish, the longer the leader you will need to use. So
The industry seems to have settled on 91/2 feet as a good all-around length. For everything from trout to steelhead to tarpon. It is a good length to handle for all levels of fly casters, and it gives enough distance between the splash down of the fly line and the fly as to not spook most fish under most circumstances.

From this standard we can then begin to think of reasons we might need to adjust. Spring creeks or spring fed lakes will probably require 15 feet of leader. Whereas sinking tip lines used in spring run off will use as leaders as short as 4 feet. A weed choked largemouth bass pond will require a shorter, stouter leader, and therefore you will be able to muscle your fish away from snags. But a trout caught in a spring creek will have the advantage because your leader will easily break off due to its lightness. Windy days might require one to shorten up a bit to ease in casting. When switching from nymphing to dry flies one might need to lengthen a bit.

Summary

I hope this has clarified and not complicated things a bit. What all this means is one must carry a good assortment of tapered leaders and even more importantly tippets with them at all times. There are many times I switch sizes in the same day. If I am fighting fish deep in faster current during the day, I might go down one X factor, and then in the evening if I am dry fly fishing in shallow slow water, Ill go up two X factors.

Not having the correct tippet can handicap ones ability to land fish, either by breaking off if too small, or spooking them if too large. It is a nominal expense compared to the rest of your equipment, and a bad place to start watching that fly fishing budget. So make sure youre well stocked for every imaginable situation before you hit the water. I guarantee you at some point you will be glad you are.

About the Author
Cameron Larsen is a retired commericial fly tier and fly fishing guide. He now operates The Big Y Fly Company. http://www.bigyflyco.com/flyfishinghome.html He can be reached at info@bigyflyco.com. This article will appear in the Big Y Fly Fishing E-Zine at Http://www.bigyflyco.com/Bigyflyfishingezine.html

De-Mystifying Fly Fishing by Cameron Larsen



I remember the first time I saw someone fly fishing. I think I was five years old. My father, my sister and I had back packed to a remote alpine lake. My trusty Zebco with the closed face push button casting reel, cork bobber and jar of Puatzkes, among my gear I couldnt live without. Positioned on a log vigilently eyeing my bobber for movement, a one-man raft paddled past, and in no time the occupant was making wild movements with the longest fishing pole ever. Mesmerized, I watched his graceful movements like he was a black belt martial arts expert. When my father came to check on me, I asked about him, my dad said he was fly fishing, a couple of other fishermen gathered to discuss this exotic art. All agreed it was a superior art form requiring more time than any one of us had to learn, let alone master. I tried to study my bobber with earnest after that, but it never seemed to hold the same pull it once had.

Fly fishing indeed is beautiful to watch. After all these years I still enjoy watching a caster that is genuinely skilled. I also enjoy watching fly fishers with unorthodox techniques. Some people havent read all the books or taken lessons, but instead have learned their skills on the water, and some people have truly unique, yet effective habits. Anyway this article is to de-mystify fly fishing for those of you that want to learn, this is a starting point from which your new passion will take off. (OK I am hoping)

Two Basic Types of Fly Fishing

I remember a fly fishing friend said to me Looks like good dry water, right downstream, as we were floating down the Deschutes River. A fly fishing novice looking downstream said questionning. Dry water?

My fly fishing friend was referring to dry fly fishing. There are two basic fly fishing techniques. Dry fly and wet fly. Dry fly refers to fishing your fly on top of the water, traditionally used for trout fly fishing, now most species are being fished with a dry fly of some kind. Dry flies usually imitate adult insects that return to the surface to lay their eggs back into the water. It is at this time they are very vulnerable to being eaten by fish. After mating and depositing their eggs, the insects then die. Commonly called spinner falls fish tend to lay and gorge themselves during these times. Dry flies are also used during hatches. When the flies are emerging from the water. Match the Hatch refers to fishing an imitation of the predominantly hatching insect of the moment. Dry flies can also be insects that get blown into the water such as grasshoppers or ants. Many bass flies or bass bugs actually imitate drowned rodents or frogs.

Dry fly fishing is what most people think of, when they think of fly fishing. Some fly fishers use many false casts to dry their offerings or to place their offerings directly over a rising fish. It is this technique that I observed all those years ago, also made famous by the movie A River Runs Through It.

Fishing sub-surface involves using heavier flies, that will sink. Often times sinkers are added to the line above the fly to sink your offering quicker. Sub-surface fly fishing involves using nymphs, wet flies, and streamers. Food that is available to fish below the surface. Flies imitate every bug or nymph available
under water. They also imitate worms, leeches, eggs, crabs, virtually everything available to fish to eat.

While dry fly fishing gets all the attention, truth be told, fish consume up to 90% of their diet under the water. So you are apt to catch more fish using wet flies, then you are dry fly fishing. Especially if you are just beginning, fishing sub-surface is going to result in more fish being caught. While fish are feeding on the surface they are very skittish, and very selective. Almost any fault in technique, rigging, or fly selection will result in scaring off the fish you are trying to catch.

Equipment

There are some basic pieces of equipment that you must have or borrow to first try fly fishing. The first is a fly rod, (never a pole). The instrument you use to fly fish with is a rod. We have written a whole article on Choosing a Fly Rod, that will give you enough basic information to at least be able to ask educated questions when shopping. The second is a fly reel, we also have an article called Choosing a Fly Reel. If it were me, and budget is of concern, (and when you see the prices of fly rods, it probably will become one), scrimp on the reel and not the rod. Casting a quality fly rod is a thing of joy, sometimes I can become so lost in the rhythym of fly casting I actually forget about the fish. I fished for years using a Pflueger Medallist. If you were to poll fly fishers over 40 and I bet over half have owned one of these.

The next thing you will need is the fly line. If you are to purchase just one, get a floating line, you can always add weight to the leader and sink the fly. But it is virtually impossible to float a sinking tip line. Fly line is very thick and it is what you actually cast. Unlike other forms of fishng where the bait and weight are casted. After the fly line come the leader and tippet and finally the fly.

Waders and wading boots are also mandatory, if one is planning on wading. With perhaps the exception of summer, when wet wading can be a relief from the heat. Anymore decent Neoprene waders can be had for around $60, and felt soled wading shoes for about the same. Although these arent top of the line, and comfort and performance suffer somewhat, they will be more than adequate.

The idea behind fly fishing is to show the fish what they actually feed on as naturally as possible. The first time I fly fished, I was amazed at how much more I actually fished. You dont need to reel in and cast out again, just lift up and cast again. More time with your fly in the water equals more opportunity to catch fish. The actual motion of simple fly casting is easy enough to pick up, it is much like the motion of hammering. Accelerating on the downstroke. In an afternoon of practice you could easily master the motion well enough to have a reasonable chance of catching a fish.

There you have it. While fly fishing can become unneccessarily complicated. In its essence I believe it is the simplest form of fishing there is. So basic is its form, and so exact is the role of its instruments, you could call it perfect. And there are times when one can get caught up in the act of exercising this perfection, that the entire world fades away, until it is just you and the

About the Author
Cameron Larsen is a retired commericial fly tier and fly fishing guide. He now operates The Big Y Fly Company. http://www.bigyflyco.com/flyfishinghome.html He can be reached at info@bigyflyco.com. This article will appear in the Big Y Fly Fishing E-Zine at Http://www.bigyflyco.com/Bigyflyfishingezine.html